The conditions on the descent reminded me of my Mount Washington summit. The visibility and temperature were not quite as bad, but similar enough to have flashbacks. As we moved down, the whiteout was disorienting. Even while moving, it was very hard to discern whether the next step would have us move up or down and to what degree. Faraway rocks appeared closer, and ledges and ridge lines were camouflaged in the flurry. After hiking for an hour or so, my goggles were covered in a sheet of ice, and our clothing and packs in rime…
Read MoreThe night ended with a long conversation about politics and religion and everything in between. None of them were “solved”, so I guess in the end it was no better than endless superficial banter about climbers and alpinists that were “badasses”, but having the deeper conversation sure felt more meaningful. I wonder if those badasses carry on about who summited what and how quickly they did it…I hope not…
Read MoreBecause while they Netflix the latest documentary from their couch, we are digging platforms in the snow for tents. While they are sipping hot chocolate at the ski lodge, we are hunkering around a stove melting snow for water. And while they thumb through the photo books, we are taking in the scenery the camera simply could not capture…
Read MoreBlasts of cold stabbed exposed skin during the transition, painfully reminding us that the arrogant and unprepared are not welcome atop the world’s highest places, that it would be not the heat but the cold that would bring down Icarian ambition here, freezing those who attempt to go higher. Yet, in darkness one thousand feet below one of America’s tallest peaks, we did.
So much discussion was on our lovers today—how Anna and Shanna interact with us, our relationships, all the nuances of each, and how our past lives have converged. We both miss our women.
Read MoreWe awoke at 7am, 10 hours after we fell asleep, which was immediately after the dinner that followed the 2 hour nap that began when we collapsed in our tent. Winded, dizzy, exhausted, not altitude adapted. After 12 hours of sleep, our bodies must have produced enough red blood cells to make up for the nearly 9000ft of altitude we picked up overnight. We were to press on today, and if we hoped to succeed, our bodies would have to catch up at the acclimatization game.
Read MoreI was now higher than I’d ever been before, and the coming days would have me achieving this feat two more times. It was at this time that I checked my GPS—my grandmother had died. The funeral was on Saturday. There was no reasonable chance of making it. My decision when Justin asked what I needed to do was immediate—“I will deal with this when I get back.” It felt callous, but it was the only option given the timing.
Read More“Falling!” was what rang in my ears, echoed by Bryan, a software engineer and sea kayaking guide who anchored the team and was presently yet above the smaller crevasse. I immediately slammed into the hillside of snow beside me, all seventy pounds of my pack and every bit of me underneath it leaning into the shaft of my ice axe. Quickly, I kick the front teeth of my crampons into the snow and brace for impact—that moment when Matt’s rope finally tensions and shock loads me and potentially everything connecting me to the ground out of place…
Read MoreMostly, I was terrified of being terrified—of having my abilities petrified by fear. The team would slow on a difficult section and I would chill—not in a good way, but I would stiffen up—both with my body and mind. Not moving and being in the rhythm of movement makes me not trust my first movements, especially when they are on foreign surfaces, which are everywhere here for me…
Read MoreI always tell my children, “Don’t climb something you can’t climb down.” Today was not a day they should’ve followed my example. Down climbing is hard, and when my footholds were blind, my fear of heights set in…hard. Luckily our instructors were far more competent climbers, and were amazing at setting up great protection. Our navigation of it less superior…
Read MoreMy past of sleeping in my car in parking garages, daily panic attacks, and struggling to be with my children because I could not afford groceries was all behind me as I took my first step toward the trail head. I journeyed in the present tense, enjoying snow-blanketing landscape, venturing across ice-covered waterfalls, and breathing in the crisp silence of the hermetic hills.
Read More700 hours of exercise this year alone. That's nearly a continuous month--night and day. None of that mentions the eight year of competitive distance running before that. Nearly half of my life, I've been heavily involved in endurance sports. It is as much a piece of me as my name, as my hair color, as my family. Many might dismiss it as a hobby or liken it to a passing interest, and even close relatives and friends suggested that my love for the sport was the source of my relationship problems. I regret I came to believe them and for two years I abandoned the sport. It was grossly ignorant.
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