Mount Rainier/Winter Denali Seminar - Day 5
Day 5 - Descent
There were moments when, in the calm before the storm, I contemplated the possibility of a summit attempt. After all, the skies were clear at the moment.
We awoke with the conservative decision to move down from Camp Muir after receiving word that another storm system would be moving through and carrying with it 22 inches of snowfall at Paradise down the mountain. With our previous storm dumping a foot and a half up high after a predicted eight inches at Paradise, we could assume this one would leave us on the mountain for at least a couple more days. There were moments when, in the calm before the storm, I contemplated the possibility of a summit attempt. After all, the skies were clear at the moment. But moving down, buried above our knees in snow even while wearing thirty-inch snowshoes, it became clear the powder that we were plodding through would have hindered any ascent attempt well into the window of the incoming storm before we would have had a chance to retreat. It was the right choice.
As we moved down, the whiteout was disorienting. Even while moving, it was very hard to discern whether the next step would have us move up or down and to what degree.
The conditions on the descent reminded me of my Mount Washington summit. The visibility and temperature were not quite as bad, but similar enough to have flashbacks. As we moved down, the whiteout was disorienting. Even while moving, it was very hard to discern whether the next step would have us move up or down and to what degree. Faraway rocks appeared closer, and ledges and ridge lines were camouflaged in the flurry. After hiking for an hour or so, my goggles were covered in a sheet of ice, and our clothing and packs in rime. Oddly, I was warmer here than sheltered at Camp Muir. Movement—even downhills—helps. I must remember this when I need it.
During the morning gearing up, shovels and snow probes had been distributed amongst us to better ensure our ability to dig each other out should the worst happen at this particular place, and there we were.
One of the more concerning parts of our trip—down the face of Panorama Point, had us move down it one at a time. With so much snowfall, it was now bearing the weight of the previous storm’s load. So the avalanche concern was high enough that precautionary steps were warranted. During the morning gearing up, shovels and snow probes had been distributed amongst us to better ensure our ability to dig each other out should the worst happen at this particular place, and there we were. Alas, it was eventless.
We finished up the descent by making our way back to Paradise. We had been scurrying down the mountain as quickly as we safely could to beat a road closure cutoff within the park. If we did not, we would have to hike the five miles of winding mountain road to the gates of the park.
We accomplished our goal and were able to be vanned out of the park. Once packed up and back at IMG Headquarters, we continued our lessons on crevasse rescue and moved into sled rigging. Fully rigged for Alaska, the setup looked something like below.
Timing is everything in winter ascents, and we simply did not get a summit window while we were at Camp Muir.
All in all the trip was productive. I was disappointed to not get higher on the mountain where much of the skills we were learning would come into play, but at the same time the wise decisions that needed to be made were. Timing is everything in winter ascents, and we simply did not get a summit window while we were at Camp Muir. I was able to test out my winter gear, and get a feel for sled hauling. In general, I feel more prepared for Denali than when I arrived.