I jarred him from his stupor, “We need to descend.” For the past two weeks, I had been careful to make suggestions, as my expedition style of climbing was a point of contention with my partners, both staunch advocates of a “fast and light” alpinist style. This time, I wasn’t making a suggestion. In that very moment, leadership of the group changed. I continued, “We have got to head back down to high camp. You are done.”

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